I've been to the Uruguayan Riviera only twice in my life, and how i long for the third! The first time was during the height of the summer madness during Christmas and New Year, when the global glitterati touch down for two weeks of polo playing and insane parties amongst the dunes.  My friend Romy and I were 22 year old students in Buenos Aires, but with all the bravado of youth, we chatted our way into every private event going, had a total ball and occasionally cat-napped in the only hostel you could find amidst the white-washed beach-pads.

The second time was to write this story for Elite Traveler.  I went in August, which is super low season and most places are shut.  There was hardly a soul to bump elbows with and it was complete bliss. My friend and owner of Brazilian Beach House, Steven Chew, drove me to all the secret local spots, including the charming village of Garzon, we ate almost every meal in the world's best beach kitchen Parador La Huella and barbecued up a feast with Francis Mallmann.   Between them, they gave me the low-down on how to spend the ultimate weekend, one week and two weeks in Uruguay, as well as all the must-have addresses.

While both were special, my tip is to skip the scene and go off season when the tourists are gone and you get to hang with the locals who make this place so unique.