Lauren Holmes
CREATIVE DREAMER & DOER
"Boipeba, a tiny tropical island off the coast of Bahia, is one of my favourite Brazilian secrets. There are no cars, just a local tractor service connecting fishing villages on a single dust-red road that runs through acres of virgin jungle; otherwise everyone hops about by boat or strolls the deserted beaches on foot. It's like slipping back in time; locals still call the shots, refusing tips with the widest of smiles.
Although under 100km from Bahia's capital of Salvador, getting to Boipeba has always involved jostling between bus, ferry and speedboat. Now you can hop on a little Cessna and be on the island in just 30 minutes, touching down among the coconut palms on what must be the world's most charming airstrip.
This sleek jungle retreat opened just over a year ago, adding a whole new level of luxury to this lovably rustic island. Balanced atop its highest point ('Céu' translates as 'heaven' in Portuguese), it has a wraparound terrace with astonishing views: an eruption of emerald green tumbling down to a half-moon bay; tranquil blue waters etched with white dashes formed by speedboats; white-sand beaches framed by sentinel palms.
The whole place has a homely, unpretentious vibe; more living, breathing beach-house than concept hotel. In the open-plan sitting room, tropical prints mingle with Balinese antiques inherited from the property's original owner, a Polish fashion designer. Weathered surfboards peep out from behind giant palms and there are low-slung coffee tables littered with cocktail shakers and boxes of tropical fruit.
In the evening, young travellers trek up here to watch the sun set and listen to lilting samba. It can turn into quite the party. But you can always beat a retreat to your suite, one of just seven, all with four-poster beds and sliding doors leading onto secluded terraces hung with hammocks.
Charming Andalucían host Jesus is always around to shake up fresh cacao caipirinhas, cook up Thai curries, source fresh aloe vera for sunburn and point guests in the direction of the island's best lobster shack. And while this crow's-nest perch may feel miles from anywhere, the island's delightful cobbled town is just 10 minutes' walk away, and down through the coconut plantations, miles of uninterrupted golden bays await.
KEYNOTE Boipeba is a total paradise, and this pad is the perfect place to take a break from the world and enjoy it
REVIEW BY LAUREN HOLMES
Published in 2016